Angie Scarth-Johnson Instagram – ❌CHIPPED HOLDS IN FINESTRA WALL❌
📸: @gabrielsaccol
Immediately After sending the infamous ‘Victimas Perez’ there was a lot of pressure placed upon me by some climbers within the community to talk about the appearance of modified holds along the Finestra wall and its top end routes . On my part particularly about the holds on Perez.
The reason I did not mention any of this in my initial post after ticking off the route was because I was not sure how to go about it all. I also believe This is something that deserves its own post, aside from my accent of Victimas Perez, at the end of the day it has nothing to do with my send but rather the tragedy of historic routes being altered to fit an individuals personal sequences. The truth is , though never mentioned by anyone before, this has been something that’s been happening for years along the Finestra wall and its top end routes and I’m curious as to why things have never been said before Though I’ve Never had a personal experience with this until now , I have heard of these situtions amongst locals before.
As I mentioned in my previous post, the weather this season hasnt been the best and as a result, very few climbers , mostly locals were climbing along finestra wall this season. I left margalef for a short time to relax my mind, when I returned to try the route, I immediately noticed a difference in one of the crimps, certain dimples in the hold had been removed ultimately making it harder to hold. Perez shares the start with a neighbouring route called ‘Gancho’ @jorge.diazrullo later discovered, that using this crimp with the other hand to climb toward ‘Gancho’ was now a more positive crimp. Although it had became apparent this hold was altered for another route, Victimas Perez would still become a victim of this alteration.
My initial response to this was to thoroughly check the entire route, I then discovered the last hold had been sanded down to more of a smooth edgeless pocket, removing the sharpness there once was. This was devastating and I was in complete disbelief. @jorge.diazrullo would then climb after me to confirm my discoveries once again.
CONTINUE IN THE COMMENTS ⬇️⬇️⬇️⬇️⬇️⬇️ Margalef, Cataluna, Spain | Posted on 04/Jun/2022 13:51:26



