John Heilemann Instagram – The headline here is simply this: @wyliedufresne is back, at last, with a new enterprise that quickly and giddily makes manifest how much we’ve missed him. It’s been nearly 8 years, after all, since Wylie — one of the most inventive/ingenious/adventurous chefs of his generation, and easily the menschiest; the @beardfoundation award-winning virtuoso who left an indelible mark on NYC and modern food culture more broadly with his legendary turn-of-the-century NYC gastronomic laboratories 71 Clinton Fresh Food and WD-50 — was last in the captain’s chair at a full-blown resto of his own. But that long and doleful dry spell comes to a blessed end tonight with the official opening of @stretchpizzanyc. Some will be surprised that WD has set aside his avant garde, molecular pursuits (aerating foie gras, frying mayonnaise, smoking mashed potatoes) for the less arcane joys of the humble pizzaiolo. But that surprise will give way to delight the moment you taste his pies — as I did at a Stretch dry run the other night. Three additional observations, each illustrated with a photo here (SWIPE LEFT), plus one directive: (1) WD remains every bit the madman behind the wheel, only now his tools are less finely calibrated, and much sharper; (2) every one of his pizzas is irresistible, and fucking delicious; (3) to make salad more palatable, Wylie has added potato chips, and the result is MAGIC. As for the prime directive, it’s straightforward: run don’t walk to @stretchpizzanyc … and you’re welcome. Cc @davidchang 🍕🍕🍕🥔🥗✨😋 | Posted on 17/Mar/2023 18:18:26
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