Moon Bloodgood Instagram – Learning to surf at my age is hard. Often times discouraging, humiliating. I keep asking myself, why are you doing this?
I keep saying I’m going to quit, it’s too time consuming. I feel selfish. My back hurts and so on
But I think, learning something this hard is good for me. It keeps me youthful in spirit. It’s humbling and I often feel pretty ridiculous but what if these surfers had to learn to dance? To act?
They would feel like I do.
Sometimes locals are amazing, sometimes they are not. I was so cautious about taking these pictures because I don’t want to surf because it’s a fad.
I love it. The ocean, the beauty, the stillness and yet thunderous waves crashing on me… I feel alive. Vital. Also I’m afraid but I’m facing that fear, right?
The thrill of something lifting me up and then I get to stand on a board in the ocean? What an honor and I suck FYI 😩
But at least I’m trying 🤙
Ｐｅａｃｅ ａｎｄ ｌｏｖｅ
☾
Pics from
@adampetrishin | Posted on 16/Mar/2023 02:55:27
