BD Athlete Carlo Traversi has put up the FA of The Dark Side (V16/8C ) in Yosemite, establishing what is now the hardest boulder in the valley. “This past weekend I climbed one of my lifetime projects in Yosemite. I call it a lifetime project because when I started trying the line, it seemed so unfeasible that I imagined it taking a lifetime to finish. More importantly, it’s such an inspiring line that I accepted the fact that I’d keep trying it for the rest of my life regardless of the mounting failures. It sits smack in the middle of Camp 4 on the left side of the Thriller boulder. It was there when Ron Kauk made the first ascent of Thriller in 1984 and when Jerry Moffatt made the first ascent of The Force in 1991. It was there in 2003 when I first saw the boulder, incapable of climbing either of those legendary lines. I couldn’t see it until 2013 on my first trip back to the Valley after a long stint away. Then it popped right out of the wall and I haven’t been able to take my eyes off it since. Over the last 7 years I’ve put 50 sessions into making this dream into a reality. I’ve quit a few times, only to be dragged back in the following year. It’s definitely my most difficult climb and the most work I’ve put into anything in my personal climbing. It’s called “The Dark Side” and I’m suggesting V16 for the grade.”
BD Athlete Carlo Traversi has put up the FA of The Dark Side (V16/8C ) in Yosemite, establishing what is now the hardest boulder in the valley. “This past weekend I climbed one of my lifetime projects in Yosemite. I call it a lifetime project because when I started trying the line, it seemed so unfeasible that I imagined it taking a lifetime to finish. More importantly, it’s such an inspiring line that I accepted the fact that I’d keep trying it for the rest of my life regardless of the mounting failures. It sits smack in the middle of Camp 4 on the left side of the Thriller boulder. It was there when Ron Kauk made the first ascent of Thriller in 1984 and when Jerry Moffatt made the first ascent of The Force in 1991. It was there in 2003 when I first saw the boulder, incapable of climbing either of those legendary lines. I couldn’t see it until 2013 on my first trip back to the Valley after a long stint away. Then it popped right out of the wall and I haven’t been able to take my eyes off it since. Over the last 7 years I’ve put 50 sessions into making this dream into a reality. I’ve quit a few times, only to be dragged back in the following year. It’s definitely my most difficult climb and the most work I’ve put into anything in my personal climbing. It’s called “The Dark Side” and I’m suggesting V16 for the grade.”
BD Athlete Carlo Traversi has put up the FA of The Dark Side (V16/8C ) in Yosemite, establishing what is now the hardest boulder in the valley. “This past weekend I climbed one of my lifetime projects in Yosemite. I call it a lifetime project because when I started trying the line, it seemed so unfeasible that I imagined it taking a lifetime to finish. More importantly, it’s such an inspiring line that I accepted the fact that I’d keep trying it for the rest of my life regardless of the mounting failures. It sits smack in the middle of Camp 4 on the left side of the Thriller boulder. It was there when Ron Kauk made the first ascent of Thriller in 1984 and when Jerry Moffatt made the first ascent of The Force in 1991. It was there in 2003 when I first saw the boulder, incapable of climbing either of those legendary lines. I couldn’t see it until 2013 on my first trip back to the Valley after a long stint away. Then it popped right out of the wall and I haven’t been able to take my eyes off it since. Over the last 7 years I’ve put 50 sessions into making this dream into a reality. I’ve quit a few times, only to be dragged back in the following year. It’s definitely my most difficult climb and the most work I’ve put into anything in my personal climbing. It’s called “The Dark Side” and I’m suggesting V16 for the grade.”
Pretty rare to find an all points off double clutch dyno to two crimps on granite. Well, last Spring the boulder hound himself @jwebxl found just that with Old Man Winter V14. I was stoked to pull together a second ascent a few days after he floated the first. This boulder is only climbable in the Spring when the snow level is high enough to create a landing. Adds some pressure to get it done as the snow starts melting! Full uncut on my YouTube. Link in bio. @blackdiamond @blackdiamond_climb @frictionlabs @theboulderfield
This Earth Day, support the critical work of @accessfund to protect America’s climbing! In addition to our many years of #BDemployee volunteer days, we recently sent two of our athletes along with them—@carlodenali and @connor.herson. Over the course of 3 days, our team helped the Access Fund Conservation Team build a trail to the Sparks Wall in beautiful Indian Creek that both protects the environment and ensures future access to climbing. But it doesn’t stop there. Far from it. More hours, more volunteers, and more dollars are needed to support Access Fund and their efforts to better climbing for all. Support by donating or volunteering at an Adopt-a-Crag or Trail Day event at the link in our bio!
Back on the route setting grind @theboulderfield the last few weeks. Over 20 years of exploring climbing movement from the creation side and still finding plenty to learn. Loving every minute of it. Really happy with the quality, consistency, and variety of problems we’ve been able to maintain at the gym over the last 6 years. And I probably don’t talk about it enough, but I do think that our Black Circuit is probably the most difficult and varied (in terms of style) collection of indoor boulders in America. We are also looking for a new Head Route Setter (I’m currently filling in for the time being). We are specifically looking for someone experienced who can take our current program to the next level. Hit me up if you think that’s you.
Smarmy conditions? Try this little bouldering tip from BD Athlete @carlodenali. Find a rock in the shade and give it a good squeeze between burns. 🪨👌
A few weeks ago, @marymeck and I welcomed this little bundle of joy into our lives, Mila Juniper Traversi. What an incredible experience bringing her into this world and I’m so proud of Mary for her strength and perseverance throughout the lengthy labor and delivery process. In awe, in so many ways, at what women are capable of. Now we are settling into our new life as a team of three and looking forward to our first adventures with the little one as soon as possible!
A few weeks ago, @marymeck and I welcomed this little bundle of joy into our lives, Mila Juniper Traversi. What an incredible experience bringing her into this world and I’m so proud of Mary for her strength and perseverance throughout the lengthy labor and delivery process. In awe, in so many ways, at what women are capable of. Now we are settling into our new life as a team of three and looking forward to our first adventures with the little one as soon as possible!
A few weeks ago, @marymeck and I welcomed this little bundle of joy into our lives, Mila Juniper Traversi. What an incredible experience bringing her into this world and I’m so proud of Mary for her strength and perseverance throughout the lengthy labor and delivery process. In awe, in so many ways, at what women are capable of. Now we are settling into our new life as a team of three and looking forward to our first adventures with the little one as soon as possible!
Slowly settling into the new routine. Mostly gym time @theboulderfield the last few months but nice to dig my fingers back into the cold Tahoe granite this past week. Contagion Low felt unlikely a few years back but the pieces fit this time around. Another primo bloc from @jwebxl 👌🏻. @blackdiamond @blackdiamond_climb
Slowly settling into the new routine. Mostly gym time @theboulderfield the last few months but nice to dig my fingers back into the cold Tahoe granite this past week. Contagion Low felt unlikely a few years back but the pieces fit this time around. Another primo bloc from @jwebxl 👌🏻. @blackdiamond @blackdiamond_climb
Slowly settling into the new routine. Mostly gym time @theboulderfield the last few months but nice to dig my fingers back into the cold Tahoe granite this past week. Contagion Low felt unlikely a few years back but the pieces fit this time around. Another primo bloc from @jwebxl 👌🏻. @blackdiamond @blackdiamond_climb
Lots of setting and climbing @theboulderfield the past few months. Definitely finding a good rhythm on plastic but looking forward to switching back to real rock soon. Here’s a little breakdown of the boulders: Problem 1: Powerful bottom moves with a high heel followed by a tricky coordination dyno where you have to land the right foot, then right hand, and finally a left toe hook to prevent the barn door. Top section is oddly powerful as well. I set this one specifically as a way to test differing styles all in one problem. Switching from slower power and tension to quick coordination and then back again. Probably V11? Problem 2: A really nice tech bloc from Quinn. Subtle moves all the way. I really like the utilization of all sides of the first large @flathold . You really have to push yourself down into the foot as you stand up to create opposition and find balance. Probably V9? Problem 3: A tech testpiece that I set this last week that I was really happy with. Lots of interesting moves and positions on this one but I particularly enjoy the right hand bump from crimp to crimp while pressing on the top of the @flathold fiberglass. The toe hook in this position creates really nice opposition for the move and makes it almost feel like you’re floating. Probably V10? Problem 4: Playing around with interesting toe hooks starts. Not too bad when everything stays in place. Powerful stand up followed by a bit of tension for the finish. Probably V9? Problem 5: The goal was to set a bit of an entry level move in this style. To some degree I think it achieves that. Definitely more positioning based than physically difficult. I found it to be a good teacher for understanding the angle of your hips when initiating the move and how that affects trajectory. Probably V9 or 10. @blackdiamond @blackdiamond_climb
Lots of setting and climbing @theboulderfield the past few months. Definitely finding a good rhythm on plastic but looking forward to switching back to real rock soon. Here’s a little breakdown of the boulders: Problem 1: Powerful bottom moves with a high heel followed by a tricky coordination dyno where you have to land the right foot, then right hand, and finally a left toe hook to prevent the barn door. Top section is oddly powerful as well. I set this one specifically as a way to test differing styles all in one problem. Switching from slower power and tension to quick coordination and then back again. Probably V11? Problem 2: A really nice tech bloc from Quinn. Subtle moves all the way. I really like the utilization of all sides of the first large @flathold . You really have to push yourself down into the foot as you stand up to create opposition and find balance. Probably V9? Problem 3: A tech testpiece that I set this last week that I was really happy with. Lots of interesting moves and positions on this one but I particularly enjoy the right hand bump from crimp to crimp while pressing on the top of the @flathold fiberglass. The toe hook in this position creates really nice opposition for the move and makes it almost feel like you’re floating. Probably V10? Problem 4: Playing around with interesting toe hooks starts. Not too bad when everything stays in place. Powerful stand up followed by a bit of tension for the finish. Probably V9? Problem 5: The goal was to set a bit of an entry level move in this style. To some degree I think it achieves that. Definitely more positioning based than physically difficult. I found it to be a good teacher for understanding the angle of your hips when initiating the move and how that affects trajectory. Probably V9 or 10. @blackdiamond @blackdiamond_climb
Lots of setting and climbing @theboulderfield the past few months. Definitely finding a good rhythm on plastic but looking forward to switching back to real rock soon. Here’s a little breakdown of the boulders: Problem 1: Powerful bottom moves with a high heel followed by a tricky coordination dyno where you have to land the right foot, then right hand, and finally a left toe hook to prevent the barn door. Top section is oddly powerful as well. I set this one specifically as a way to test differing styles all in one problem. Switching from slower power and tension to quick coordination and then back again. Probably V11? Problem 2: A really nice tech bloc from Quinn. Subtle moves all the way. I really like the utilization of all sides of the first large @flathold . You really have to push yourself down into the foot as you stand up to create opposition and find balance. Probably V9? Problem 3: A tech testpiece that I set this last week that I was really happy with. Lots of interesting moves and positions on this one but I particularly enjoy the right hand bump from crimp to crimp while pressing on the top of the @flathold fiberglass. The toe hook in this position creates really nice opposition for the move and makes it almost feel like you’re floating. Probably V10? Problem 4: Playing around with interesting toe hooks starts. Not too bad when everything stays in place. Powerful stand up followed by a bit of tension for the finish. Probably V9? Problem 5: The goal was to set a bit of an entry level move in this style. To some degree I think it achieves that. Definitely more positioning based than physically difficult. I found it to be a good teacher for understanding the angle of your hips when initiating the move and how that affects trajectory. Probably V9 or 10. @blackdiamond @blackdiamond_climb
Lots of setting and climbing @theboulderfield the past few months. Definitely finding a good rhythm on plastic but looking forward to switching back to real rock soon. Here’s a little breakdown of the boulders: Problem 1: Powerful bottom moves with a high heel followed by a tricky coordination dyno where you have to land the right foot, then right hand, and finally a left toe hook to prevent the barn door. Top section is oddly powerful as well. I set this one specifically as a way to test differing styles all in one problem. Switching from slower power and tension to quick coordination and then back again. Probably V11? Problem 2: A really nice tech bloc from Quinn. Subtle moves all the way. I really like the utilization of all sides of the first large @flathold . You really have to push yourself down into the foot as you stand up to create opposition and find balance. Probably V9? Problem 3: A tech testpiece that I set this last week that I was really happy with. Lots of interesting moves and positions on this one but I particularly enjoy the right hand bump from crimp to crimp while pressing on the top of the @flathold fiberglass. The toe hook in this position creates really nice opposition for the move and makes it almost feel like you’re floating. Probably V10? Problem 4: Playing around with interesting toe hooks starts. Not too bad when everything stays in place. Powerful stand up followed by a bit of tension for the finish. Probably V9? Problem 5: The goal was to set a bit of an entry level move in this style. To some degree I think it achieves that. Definitely more positioning based than physically difficult. I found it to be a good teacher for understanding the angle of your hips when initiating the move and how that affects trajectory. Probably V9 or 10. @blackdiamond @blackdiamond_climb
Lots of setting and climbing @theboulderfield the past few months. Definitely finding a good rhythm on plastic but looking forward to switching back to real rock soon. Here’s a little breakdown of the boulders: Problem 1: Powerful bottom moves with a high heel followed by a tricky coordination dyno where you have to land the right foot, then right hand, and finally a left toe hook to prevent the barn door. Top section is oddly powerful as well. I set this one specifically as a way to test differing styles all in one problem. Switching from slower power and tension to quick coordination and then back again. Probably V11? Problem 2: A really nice tech bloc from Quinn. Subtle moves all the way. I really like the utilization of all sides of the first large @flathold . You really have to push yourself down into the foot as you stand up to create opposition and find balance. Probably V9? Problem 3: A tech testpiece that I set this last week that I was really happy with. Lots of interesting moves and positions on this one but I particularly enjoy the right hand bump from crimp to crimp while pressing on the top of the @flathold fiberglass. The toe hook in this position creates really nice opposition for the move and makes it almost feel like you’re floating. Probably V10? Problem 4: Playing around with interesting toe hooks starts. Not too bad when everything stays in place. Powerful stand up followed by a bit of tension for the finish. Probably V9? Problem 5: The goal was to set a bit of an entry level move in this style. To some degree I think it achieves that. Definitely more positioning based than physically difficult. I found it to be a good teacher for understanding the angle of your hips when initiating the move and how that affects trajectory. Probably V9 or 10. @blackdiamond @blackdiamond_climb
Something to come back for… Not many of those for @connor.herson this past year. 🙌🏻 @blackdiamond @blackdiamond_climb
🎙️ New Episode! Carlo Traversi: Mastering Movement, Getting Better Without Being Stronger, V16 and Beyond, and Seeking Struggle 🎧 Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you pod. This show is available at zero cost thanks to sponsors @boulderbearsgummies , @petzl_official, @crimpd and @scarpana They’re offering some great deals for listeners, so show them some love! The Struggle is carbon neutral in partnership with @honnoldfoundation ☀️ Access 50 hours of bonus content and support the show by becoming a member: Patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow 🙏🏼
🎙️ New Episode! Carlo Traversi: Mastering Movement, Getting Better Without Being Stronger, V16 and Beyond, and Seeking Struggle 🎧 Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you pod. This show is available at zero cost thanks to sponsors @boulderbearsgummies , @petzl_official, @crimpd and @scarpana They’re offering some great deals for listeners, so show them some love! The Struggle is carbon neutral in partnership with @honnoldfoundation ☀️ Access 50 hours of bonus content and support the show by becoming a member: Patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow 🙏🏼
🎙️ New Episode! Carlo Traversi: Mastering Movement, Getting Better Without Being Stronger, V16 and Beyond, and Seeking Struggle 🎧 Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you pod. This show is available at zero cost thanks to sponsors @boulderbearsgummies , @petzl_official, @crimpd and @scarpana They’re offering some great deals for listeners, so show them some love! The Struggle is carbon neutral in partnership with @honnoldfoundation ☀️ Access 50 hours of bonus content and support the show by becoming a member: Patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow 🙏🏼
🎙️ New Episode! Carlo Traversi: Mastering Movement, Getting Better Without Being Stronger, V16 and Beyond, and Seeking Struggle 🎧 Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you pod. This show is available at zero cost thanks to sponsors @boulderbearsgummies , @petzl_official, @crimpd and @scarpana They’re offering some great deals for listeners, so show them some love! The Struggle is carbon neutral in partnership with @honnoldfoundation ☀️ Access 50 hours of bonus content and support the show by becoming a member: Patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow 🙏🏼
🎙️ New Episode! Carlo Traversi: Mastering Movement, Getting Better Without Being Stronger, V16 and Beyond, and Seeking Struggle 🎧 Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you pod. This show is available at zero cost thanks to sponsors @boulderbearsgummies , @petzl_official, @crimpd and @scarpana They’re offering some great deals for listeners, so show them some love! The Struggle is carbon neutral in partnership with @honnoldfoundation ☀️ Access 50 hours of bonus content and support the show by becoming a member: Patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow 🙏🏼
