Conrad Anker Instagram – John Middendorf, “Duecy” in the Valley, was the leader of Big Wall climbing in the 1990s. His first ascent of the Atlantic Ocean Wall on El Capitan was the springboard for adventures in the Great Ranges.
The ascent of “Grand Voyage” set a high bar for self sufficiency and determination. The photos of the tower and post summit portrait are courtesy of @acekvale, photographer on the expedition. Xavier Bongard and John are seen racking up for the Swiss – American Route on the North Face of Angels Landing, Zion.
John applied his engineering expertise to designing and manufacturing wall climbing accoutrements. The art of @johnjmcmullen ushered in the brand and along with watercolors from John Svenson of Alaska. The Beak, an adaption of the CrackNUp envisioned with Jim Bridwell, helped open up the arcane craft of aid climbing. The D4 hammer is well respected and sought after if the task necessitates a hammer. He designed the Cliff Cabaña portaledge and then later the D4 ledge, spinning the axis and bending corner technology.
John’s knowledge of climbing history and equipment has helped us understand where we are today and the importance of documenting the past. Funny storm slide courtesy of Jimmy Dunn.
30 years ago we climbed Cerro Torre together. The memories of base camp with Kennan, Topher, Ermanno, Paul, Rolo, Teo and a host of others center on keeping occupied during bad weather. We had a lots of fun.
With empathy for the family of John.
#climbing #bigwall #portaledge #yosemiteclimbing | Posted on 27/Jun/2024 01:07:32
