My time on “Alphane” (9A) has concluded. Did not end up with a send, but made links that showed me the line was well within grasp. My understanding of the moves became dialed in. All that I lacked was friction to make the full link possible. Climbing something of this difficulty is a mental rollercoaster ride. I felt physically capable of doing it, but never had consistently good weather that gave me send vibes. Most of my days were more of a battle rather than flowing. This is how climbing at your max works though. Everything (mind, body, weather) has to positively be in unison for a send to work. It’s a rare moment that honestly feels like luck when it happens. Yet you look back at all the days spent on beta refinement, links made, dialing those links, and battles performed in shit weather that play a giant role in training you up for that lucky moment. The struggle is definitely worth it in the end. Here are some vids of my best links. I was able to climb the 8C portion a couple times and made a couple good goes from the start. Will be back in Nov/Dec! Vids by @lisapaarviophotography @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @physivantage @mellowclimbing
Insomniac (8C /v16) 🧟♂️ Fall temps have arrived in the alpine. Finally didn’t melt off the final friction traverse at the end 🫠. Learned how to do some technical heel hooking. Overall was a pleasure to climb on this line that @drewruana established last July. The full line is broken into two parts. The first part is a powerful crimp isolation section into a jug rest (8B). The second part is power tech climbing on friction slopers, heel hooks, and a friction dependent trav until the final jug (8B). I fell too many times on the last trav cause of wet tips. I knew as soon as it got cold n dry this section would not be an issue. Hyped to see this one through. Back in the day this line seemed very futuristic. The original way of doing “We Can Build You” (2nd part) was way more powerful and low percentage. The new heel hook beta makes the crux high percentage, thus making the full connection seem probable. We originally thought “we can build you” was hard 14 but now it feels more like hard 13. Insomniac is on the cusp of 15/16, but do feel like it is harder than most 15s I’ve done in this style. Insomniac is a daunting task to take on. Fall season has begun… time to get to work 🔥 Images by @dreamaliveproductions @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @physivantage
Insomniac (8C /v16) 🧟♂️ Fall temps have arrived in the alpine. Finally didn’t melt off the final friction traverse at the end 🫠. Learned how to do some technical heel hooking. Overall was a pleasure to climb on this line that @drewruana established last July. The full line is broken into two parts. The first part is a powerful crimp isolation section into a jug rest (8B). The second part is power tech climbing on friction slopers, heel hooks, and a friction dependent trav until the final jug (8B). I fell too many times on the last trav cause of wet tips. I knew as soon as it got cold n dry this section would not be an issue. Hyped to see this one through. Back in the day this line seemed very futuristic. The original way of doing “We Can Build You” (2nd part) was way more powerful and low percentage. The new heel hook beta makes the crux high percentage, thus making the full connection seem probable. We originally thought “we can build you” was hard 14 but now it feels more like hard 13. Insomniac is on the cusp of 15/16, but do feel like it is harder than most 15s I’ve done in this style. Insomniac is a daunting task to take on. Fall season has begun… time to get to work 🔥 Images by @dreamaliveproductions @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @physivantage
Insomniac (8C /v16) 🧟♂️ Fall temps have arrived in the alpine. Finally didn’t melt off the final friction traverse at the end 🫠. Learned how to do some technical heel hooking. Overall was a pleasure to climb on this line that @drewruana established last July. The full line is broken into two parts. The first part is a powerful crimp isolation section into a jug rest (8B). The second part is power tech climbing on friction slopers, heel hooks, and a friction dependent trav until the final jug (8B). I fell too many times on the last trav cause of wet tips. I knew as soon as it got cold n dry this section would not be an issue. Hyped to see this one through. Back in the day this line seemed very futuristic. The original way of doing “We Can Build You” (2nd part) was way more powerful and low percentage. The new heel hook beta makes the crux high percentage, thus making the full connection seem probable. We originally thought “we can build you” was hard 14 but now it feels more like hard 13. Insomniac is on the cusp of 15/16, but do feel like it is harder than most 15s I’ve done in this style. Insomniac is a daunting task to take on. Fall season has begun… time to get to work 🔥 Images by @dreamaliveproductions @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @physivantage
Insomniac (8C /v16) 🧟♂️ Fall temps have arrived in the alpine. Finally didn’t melt off the final friction traverse at the end 🫠. Learned how to do some technical heel hooking. Overall was a pleasure to climb on this line that @drewruana established last July. The full line is broken into two parts. The first part is a powerful crimp isolation section into a jug rest (8B). The second part is power tech climbing on friction slopers, heel hooks, and a friction dependent trav until the final jug (8B). I fell too many times on the last trav cause of wet tips. I knew as soon as it got cold n dry this section would not be an issue. Hyped to see this one through. Back in the day this line seemed very futuristic. The original way of doing “We Can Build You” (2nd part) was way more powerful and low percentage. The new heel hook beta makes the crux high percentage, thus making the full connection seem probable. We originally thought “we can build you” was hard 14 but now it feels more like hard 13. Insomniac is on the cusp of 15/16, but do feel like it is harder than most 15s I’ve done in this style. Insomniac is a daunting task to take on. Fall season has begun… time to get to work 🔥 Images by @dreamaliveproductions @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @physivantage
Insomniac (8C /v16) 🧟♂️ Fall temps have arrived in the alpine. Finally didn’t melt off the final friction traverse at the end 🫠. Learned how to do some technical heel hooking. Overall was a pleasure to climb on this line that @drewruana established last July. The full line is broken into two parts. The first part is a powerful crimp isolation section into a jug rest (8B). The second part is power tech climbing on friction slopers, heel hooks, and a friction dependent trav until the final jug (8B). I fell too many times on the last trav cause of wet tips. I knew as soon as it got cold n dry this section would not be an issue. Hyped to see this one through. Back in the day this line seemed very futuristic. The original way of doing “We Can Build You” (2nd part) was way more powerful and low percentage. The new heel hook beta makes the crux high percentage, thus making the full connection seem probable. We originally thought “we can build you” was hard 14 but now it feels more like hard 13. Insomniac is on the cusp of 15/16, but do feel like it is harder than most 15s I’ve done in this style. Insomniac is a daunting task to take on. Fall season has begun… time to get to work 🔥 Images by @dreamaliveproductions @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @physivantage
Insomniac (8C /v16) 🧟♂️ Fall temps have arrived in the alpine. Finally didn’t melt off the final friction traverse at the end 🫠. Learned how to do some technical heel hooking. Overall was a pleasure to climb on this line that @drewruana established last July. The full line is broken into two parts. The first part is a powerful crimp isolation section into a jug rest (8B). The second part is power tech climbing on friction slopers, heel hooks, and a friction dependent trav until the final jug (8B). I fell too many times on the last trav cause of wet tips. I knew as soon as it got cold n dry this section would not be an issue. Hyped to see this one through. Back in the day this line seemed very futuristic. The original way of doing “We Can Build You” (2nd part) was way more powerful and low percentage. The new heel hook beta makes the crux high percentage, thus making the full connection seem probable. We originally thought “we can build you” was hard 14 but now it feels more like hard 13. Insomniac is on the cusp of 15/16, but do feel like it is harder than most 15s I’ve done in this style. Insomniac is a daunting task to take on. Fall season has begun… time to get to work 🔥 Images by @dreamaliveproductions @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @physivantage
Compass North (8B ) Flash great power crimp line established by @clem_lechap . The crux hold on this thing is pretty evil. Moves are super basic and straight forward making it a great flash contender. I looked at this line back in may and was inspired to give it a good first go effort. This trip I waited for the right day with cold/dry conditions to try and do it first go. I got that day and everything flowed how I wanted it to. stoked to get the 3rd ascent after Clem and @aidan.roberts98. Not sure if this thing will stand being 8B but who knows? Everything about this line was in my style of climbing and it still was a good fight. Regardless if it’s 8B/ , compass north is my hardest flash, so I feel proud with that. got some good vid from @renegrincourt_ that will be coming out soonish. Photos @lisapaarviophotography @thenorthface @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @physivantage
Compass North (8B ) Flash great power crimp line established by @clem_lechap . The crux hold on this thing is pretty evil. Moves are super basic and straight forward making it a great flash contender. I looked at this line back in may and was inspired to give it a good first go effort. This trip I waited for the right day with cold/dry conditions to try and do it first go. I got that day and everything flowed how I wanted it to. stoked to get the 3rd ascent after Clem and @aidan.roberts98. Not sure if this thing will stand being 8B but who knows? Everything about this line was in my style of climbing and it still was a good fight. Regardless if it’s 8B/ , compass north is my hardest flash, so I feel proud with that. got some good vid from @renegrincourt_ that will be coming out soonish. Photos @lisapaarviophotography @thenorthface @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @physivantage
Compass North (8B ) Flash great power crimp line established by @clem_lechap . The crux hold on this thing is pretty evil. Moves are super basic and straight forward making it a great flash contender. I looked at this line back in may and was inspired to give it a good first go effort. This trip I waited for the right day with cold/dry conditions to try and do it first go. I got that day and everything flowed how I wanted it to. stoked to get the 3rd ascent after Clem and @aidan.roberts98. Not sure if this thing will stand being 8B but who knows? Everything about this line was in my style of climbing and it still was a good fight. Regardless if it’s 8B/ , compass north is my hardest flash, so I feel proud with that. got some good vid from @renegrincourt_ that will be coming out soonish. Photos @lisapaarviophotography @thenorthface @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @physivantage
Grape Ape (8A ) FA cleaned this line then figured out the moves with @dave_graham_ . Great rock, hold selection, and moves on this thing. hyped to add another stunner to the forest. Photos @lisapaarviophotography 🔥 @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @physivantage
Grape Ape (8A ) FA cleaned this line then figured out the moves with @dave_graham_ . Great rock, hold selection, and moves on this thing. hyped to add another stunner to the forest. Photos @lisapaarviophotography 🔥 @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @physivantage
Grape Ape (8A ) FA cleaned this line then figured out the moves with @dave_graham_ . Great rock, hold selection, and moves on this thing. hyped to add another stunner to the forest. Photos @lisapaarviophotography 🔥 @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @physivantage
Grape Ape (8A ) FA cleaned this line then figured out the moves with @dave_graham_ . Great rock, hold selection, and moves on this thing. hyped to add another stunner to the forest. Photos @lisapaarviophotography 🔥 @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @physivantage
Grape Ape (8A ) FA cleaned this line then figured out the moves with @dave_graham_ . Great rock, hold selection, and moves on this thing. hyped to add another stunner to the forest. Photos @lisapaarviophotography 🔥 @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @physivantage
First few days in Fionnay were perfect. Managed to do “Foundations Edge” (8C) which was established by @dave_graham_ back in the day. Next day hooked up “Scarred for Life” (8B ). Stoked to be in the valais for a couple more weeks. The climbing here is all time. “Fuck the system” bloc, which hosts Foundations Edge and Scarred for Life, is one of the more impressive roof blocs I’ve climbed on. Rock is insane and the hold selection is surreal. time to keep on ragin 🔥
First few days in Fionnay were perfect. Managed to do “Foundations Edge” (8C) which was established by @dave_graham_ back in the day. Next day hooked up “Scarred for Life” (8B ). Stoked to be in the valais for a couple more weeks. The climbing here is all time. “Fuck the system” bloc, which hosts Foundations Edge and Scarred for Life, is one of the more impressive roof blocs I’ve climbed on. Rock is insane and the hold selection is surreal. time to keep on ragin 🔥
First few days in Fionnay were perfect. Managed to do “Foundations Edge” (8C) which was established by @dave_graham_ back in the day. Next day hooked up “Scarred for Life” (8B ). Stoked to be in the valais for a couple more weeks. The climbing here is all time. “Fuck the system” bloc, which hosts Foundations Edge and Scarred for Life, is one of the more impressive roof blocs I’ve climbed on. Rock is insane and the hold selection is surreal. time to keep on ragin 🔥
First few days in Fionnay were perfect. Managed to do “Foundations Edge” (8C) which was established by @dave_graham_ back in the day. Next day hooked up “Scarred for Life” (8B ). Stoked to be in the valais for a couple more weeks. The climbing here is all time. “Fuck the system” bloc, which hosts Foundations Edge and Scarred for Life, is one of the more impressive roof blocs I’ve climbed on. Rock is insane and the hold selection is surreal. time to keep on ragin 🔥
“The Bitter End” (8B or 9a route) Fail vid… little easier to see what’s going on in this vid. Hard one to film though
The Bitter End (8B or 9a route) Oof this thing is pumpy. Another great @dave_graham_ addition to the “fuck the system” boulder from back in the day. Really fun movement on this one. My trip to Fionnay has come to an end. Was stoked to finish off the lines that previously shut me down. There are a few ones that remain to return back for! The rock, lines, hold selection, and scenery all made my experience here a real treat to enjoy. Vid @yvesburri @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @physivantage
