“Return of the Sleepwalker” (FA) proposed 9A/v17 It’s all just a game people… and I play the game The game is how comfortable can you become with your own insanity video coming to @mellowclimbing SOON 🔥 photo @bobbysorich Fueled by @physivantage and @celsiusofficial @thenorthface @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs
Off the Wagon (8C ) ✔ ______________________ . Back in the day, @chris_sharma and @dave_graham_ discover the “Wagon Proj.” Chris gets very close to sending. ___________________________________ . 2012: @nalle_hukkataival makes the first ascent of “Off the Wagon” calling it 8C. Since the FA, the bloc has seen numerous ascents. 8B is consensus. ___________________________________ . Nov. 2018: Next generation prodigy @shawnraboutou establishes the sit start. This adds an (8A) intro move along with a couple setup moves into the start of “Off the Wagon”. Swizzy’s first 8C is born. ___________________________________ . 2k20: @jwebxl makes first repeat of the sit, and now I followed suit shortly after. One of the more exhilerating experiences I have had in bouldering. The power, precision, and accuracy needed to send is difficult to have align in unison. Each session I put 50/50 odds on myself if it would go down or not. This soon turned into a mental battle. I was pretty limit on the send, but somehow managed to maintain zone state and top it out. Top 3 power blocs in the world for me. Nice work shawn for establishing the blocs full line! Photos @marymeck
Off the Wagon (8C ) ✔ ______________________ . Back in the day, @chris_sharma and @dave_graham_ discover the “Wagon Proj.” Chris gets very close to sending. ___________________________________ . 2012: @nalle_hukkataival makes the first ascent of “Off the Wagon” calling it 8C. Since the FA, the bloc has seen numerous ascents. 8B is consensus. ___________________________________ . Nov. 2018: Next generation prodigy @shawnraboutou establishes the sit start. This adds an (8A) intro move along with a couple setup moves into the start of “Off the Wagon”. Swizzy’s first 8C is born. ___________________________________ . 2k20: @jwebxl makes first repeat of the sit, and now I followed suit shortly after. One of the more exhilerating experiences I have had in bouldering. The power, precision, and accuracy needed to send is difficult to have align in unison. Each session I put 50/50 odds on myself if it would go down or not. This soon turned into a mental battle. I was pretty limit on the send, but somehow managed to maintain zone state and top it out. Top 3 power blocs in the world for me. Nice work shawn for establishing the blocs full line! Photos @marymeck
Adrenaline (FA) proposed 8C /v16 What a painful ride with this one! Stellar line and rock though. Was difficult to get into a rhythm with it. Had to have skin and conditions line up to properly stick and execute the moves. I think low end 16 but it’s a tricky one to grade. @bobbysorich photos 🔥🔥 @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @physivantage
Adrenaline (FA) proposed 8C /v16 What a painful ride with this one! Stellar line and rock though. Was difficult to get into a rhythm with it. Had to have skin and conditions line up to properly stick and execute the moves. I think low end 16 but it’s a tricky one to grade. @bobbysorich photos 🔥🔥 @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @physivantage
Adrenaline (FA) proposed 8C /v16 What a painful ride with this one! Stellar line and rock though. Was difficult to get into a rhythm with it. Had to have skin and conditions line up to properly stick and execute the moves. I think low end 16 but it’s a tricky one to grade. @bobbysorich photos 🔥🔥 @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @physivantage
Adrenaline (FA) proposed 8C /v16 What a painful ride with this one! Stellar line and rock though. Was difficult to get into a rhythm with it. Had to have skin and conditions line up to properly stick and execute the moves. I think low end 16 but it’s a tricky one to grade. @bobbysorich photos 🔥🔥 @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @physivantage
Adrenaline (FA) proposed 8C /v16 What a painful ride with this one! Stellar line and rock though. Was difficult to get into a rhythm with it. Had to have skin and conditions line up to properly stick and execute the moves. I think low end 16 but it’s a tricky one to grade. @bobbysorich photos 🔥🔥 @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @physivantage
Adrenaline (FA) proposed 8C /v16 What a painful ride with this one! Stellar line and rock though. Was difficult to get into a rhythm with it. Had to have skin and conditions line up to properly stick and execute the moves. I think low end 16 but it’s a tricky one to grade. @bobbysorich photos 🔥🔥 @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @physivantage
Freakshow (v15/8C) First repeat after @drewruana Drew originally proposed 14, but I broke a key hand hold on the vertical section. This created a new crux which I think levels the climb up. Freakshow is divided into 3 sections: Section 1- Physical moves on open hand underclings and foot smears lead to a positive edge at the lip of the roof. Section 2- Powerful throw off this edge to a quarter pad mini pinch (crux 1) followed by resistant moves on small edges across the lip of the roof. This leads to a hard cut off of two small edges (crux 2) to gain a right heel and transfer onto the 20 foot vert/slab head wall. Section 3- Once you transfer there are three finger intensive moves (redpoint crux), followed by easier yet heady climbing to the top of the boulder. Section difficulty breakdown: v10/11 (7C /8A) to v13 (8B) to v8 (7B ) Freakshow offers around 40 feet of climbing. The style is both powerful and technical. Fun ride with this one. Photos by @bobbysorich @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @physivantage
Freakshow (v15/8C) First repeat after @drewruana Drew originally proposed 14, but I broke a key hand hold on the vertical section. This created a new crux which I think levels the climb up. Freakshow is divided into 3 sections: Section 1- Physical moves on open hand underclings and foot smears lead to a positive edge at the lip of the roof. Section 2- Powerful throw off this edge to a quarter pad mini pinch (crux 1) followed by resistant moves on small edges across the lip of the roof. This leads to a hard cut off of two small edges (crux 2) to gain a right heel and transfer onto the 20 foot vert/slab head wall. Section 3- Once you transfer there are three finger intensive moves (redpoint crux), followed by easier yet heady climbing to the top of the boulder. Section difficulty breakdown: v10/11 (7C /8A) to v13 (8B) to v8 (7B ) Freakshow offers around 40 feet of climbing. The style is both powerful and technical. Fun ride with this one. Photos by @bobbysorich @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @physivantage
Freakshow (v15/8C) First repeat after @drewruana Drew originally proposed 14, but I broke a key hand hold on the vertical section. This created a new crux which I think levels the climb up. Freakshow is divided into 3 sections: Section 1- Physical moves on open hand underclings and foot smears lead to a positive edge at the lip of the roof. Section 2- Powerful throw off this edge to a quarter pad mini pinch (crux 1) followed by resistant moves on small edges across the lip of the roof. This leads to a hard cut off of two small edges (crux 2) to gain a right heel and transfer onto the 20 foot vert/slab head wall. Section 3- Once you transfer there are three finger intensive moves (redpoint crux), followed by easier yet heady climbing to the top of the boulder. Section difficulty breakdown: v10/11 (7C /8A) to v13 (8B) to v8 (7B ) Freakshow offers around 40 feet of climbing. The style is both powerful and technical. Fun ride with this one. Photos by @bobbysorich @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @physivantage
Freakshow (v15/8C) First repeat after @drewruana Drew originally proposed 14, but I broke a key hand hold on the vertical section. This created a new crux which I think levels the climb up. Freakshow is divided into 3 sections: Section 1- Physical moves on open hand underclings and foot smears lead to a positive edge at the lip of the roof. Section 2- Powerful throw off this edge to a quarter pad mini pinch (crux 1) followed by resistant moves on small edges across the lip of the roof. This leads to a hard cut off of two small edges (crux 2) to gain a right heel and transfer onto the 20 foot vert/slab head wall. Section 3- Once you transfer there are three finger intensive moves (redpoint crux), followed by easier yet heady climbing to the top of the boulder. Section difficulty breakdown: v10/11 (7C /8A) to v13 (8B) to v8 (7B ) Freakshow offers around 40 feet of climbing. The style is both powerful and technical. Fun ride with this one. Photos by @bobbysorich @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @physivantage
Embrace Gravity 8B Location: Bavona Wall found by: @jwebxl @patinaeater Embrace gravity FA: @kimmarschner This is one of those lines that leaves ya jaw dropped and itching to climb. The hold selection, rock texture, and movement are perfect. It’s tall but not dangerous. Was hyped to have stellar conditions and climb it right before the epic storm system came through. Photos: @samm_pratt @thenorthface_climb @thenorthface @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @physivantage
Embrace Gravity 8B Location: Bavona Wall found by: @jwebxl @patinaeater Embrace gravity FA: @kimmarschner This is one of those lines that leaves ya jaw dropped and itching to climb. The hold selection, rock texture, and movement are perfect. It’s tall but not dangerous. Was hyped to have stellar conditions and climb it right before the epic storm system came through. Photos: @samm_pratt @thenorthface_climb @thenorthface @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @physivantage
Embrace Gravity 8B Location: Bavona Wall found by: @jwebxl @patinaeater Embrace gravity FA: @kimmarschner This is one of those lines that leaves ya jaw dropped and itching to climb. The hold selection, rock texture, and movement are perfect. It’s tall but not dangerous. Was hyped to have stellar conditions and climb it right before the epic storm system came through. Photos: @samm_pratt @thenorthface_climb @thenorthface @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @physivantage
Embrace Gravity 8B Location: Bavona Wall found by: @jwebxl @patinaeater Embrace gravity FA: @kimmarschner This is one of those lines that leaves ya jaw dropped and itching to climb. The hold selection, rock texture, and movement are perfect. It’s tall but not dangerous. Was hyped to have stellar conditions and climb it right before the epic storm system came through. Photos: @samm_pratt @thenorthface_climb @thenorthface @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @physivantage
Embrace Gravity 8B Location: Bavona Wall found by: @jwebxl @patinaeater Embrace gravity FA: @kimmarschner This is one of those lines that leaves ya jaw dropped and itching to climb. The hold selection, rock texture, and movement are perfect. It’s tall but not dangerous. Was hyped to have stellar conditions and climb it right before the epic storm system came through. Photos: @samm_pratt @thenorthface_climb @thenorthface @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @physivantage
Embrace Gravity 8B Location: Bavona Wall found by: @jwebxl @patinaeater Embrace gravity FA: @kimmarschner This is one of those lines that leaves ya jaw dropped and itching to climb. The hold selection, rock texture, and movement are perfect. It’s tall but not dangerous. Was hyped to have stellar conditions and climb it right before the epic storm system came through. Photos: @samm_pratt @thenorthface_climb @thenorthface @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @physivantage
“Florida Man” (8A /v12)(2nd asc.) Great bloc hosting a couple of tech lines. Was nice to take a break from all the steep lines I’ve been on lately and session something more delicate. For a trav this thing has some intricate body positions, cool hold selection, and great rock. Vid by @sheneenagins @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @physivantage
American Airlines (8A) FA Fall is starting to hit CO which means it’s time to try hard. @tchadx showed me this new zone that he and @fausey established some choice lines in. One line that caught my eye was this dyno proj. At first I was jumping all out and holding the swing with one arm. On the send I was able to keep my left hand on. Pulling the roof and topping out added some spice factor at the end. The under side of the roof is still crumbling (as you can hear in the vid 😂). Overall the holds are solid and this thing will cleanup to be a CO classic. @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @evolv_worldwide @frictionlabs @organicclimbing @physivantage
Railway (8C/v15) Savage board style crimp line established by @aidan.roberts98 4 years ago. Since then it has only seen three other repeats by @matt_fultz, @drewruana, and @benburrk. The holds on this thing are small and painful. The moves require both dynamic and isolated power. Angle of the roof is around 50 degrees overhung. The crux of the boulder is the first move (around 8A /v12) followed by a 8B/v13. I first tried this line two years ago and got close (fell going for the lip of the boulder). I was able to use a toe hook out left which made the 2nd big lock off move substantially easier. I took two years off the line, then got the urge to go back and try to finish it. The foot I used to get the toe hook broke, making this method not possible for me anymore. I had to go back to the original method which is nails hard in my opinion. It has taken some days to dial in the moves and regain the power necessary to do them. I finally got the one move in link the other day, and fell going for the last sharp quarter pad edge from the start. Stoked to try and finish it before it gets snowed out. @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @physivantage
Been grinding away on this roof proj in CO. First started trying it back in Jan. of 23. Put a few days in then before heading to Ticino to try Alphane. I returned back in April and got close before warm condis came n shut me down. Now it’s winter and prime time to try n finish it. This line, hold selection, and movement is out there. The crux revolves around a flared slot hold which u have to ring lock and lock off to a right hand rounded quarter pad vertical edge. The lock is super painful and constantly bruises my left index finger. It only feels secure when my fingers are numb and I can’t feel it. This eliminates the pain, so I can pull thru and not think about it. Def the hardest ring lock move I have done (though we do not encounter this style of grip often in bouldering). The last move is the next crux coming from the bottom. You have to dominate this sharp quarter pad edge and dive into another sharp quarter pad edge. I’ve fallen here 3 times now from the start. Pain tolerance is the name of the game for this one. Have a love hate relationship with it. @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @physivantage
Throwback vid of my ascent of “Ninjitsu” (8B /v14). I climbed this line back in March of this year. Instantly loved the moves and hold set on this line. Can’t wait to get back to Ticino in Nov! The summer has been pretty slow for me. I don’t like climbing in the heat, so have used these months to chill and recover for when fall/winter rolls through. Luckily, fall is around the corner and motivation to try hard is coming into play. Vid by @patinaeater @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @evolv_worldwide @organicclimbing @frictionlabs @physivantage
