“The Drago’s were exactly what I needed for some of Colorado’s textured outdoor granite.
The soft last suctions onto feet that stiffer shoes slip right off of.
Sometimes you need sensitive rubber to really dig into rock; then there’s more weight on your feet and less on your hands. The Drago are perfect for the job!”” – @sheneenagins
📸 @honngy
#scarpa #noplcetoofar #scarpaclimb
Fenghuang 凤凰 Chinese phoenix 🐦🔥
The pain endurance of sitting for 17hrs over the course of 3 sessions (6, 7, 4hrs) was both intense and meditative. I’ve wanted this piece for awhile and am over the moon with how it turned out. Grateful for @wilwang_tatt’s artistry and style. He told me I couldn’t work out for two weeks but 😅🤫 It’s healing fast and I was back to training just a couple days afterwards!
Thank you @wilwang_tatt and @gungho_tattoo_studio for this experience 🙏🏼
Fenghuang 凤凰 Chinese phoenix 🐦🔥
The pain endurance of sitting for 17hrs over the course of 3 sessions (6, 7, 4hrs) was both intense and meditative. I’ve wanted this piece for awhile and am over the moon with how it turned out. Grateful for @wilwang_tatt’s artistry and style. He told me I couldn’t work out for two weeks but 😅🤫 It’s healing fast and I was back to training just a couple days afterwards!
Thank you @wilwang_tatt and @gungho_tattoo_studio for this experience 🙏🏼
Last summer I completed the Longs Peak Triathlon, unsupported. It was a personal challenge that I didn’t talk much about on social media. The Triathlon – a trio of biking, running, and climbing from Boulder to RMNP and back – encompassed moments of pure joy alongside clear and sobering realizations of my own mortality. I wanted time to process and reflect. Expressing my experience authentically while also acknowledging the impact of storytelling around soloing feels important to me; it’s a story I want to tell the Front Range community firsthand, in-person.
Join me at @colorado_chautauqua March 12th for an imperfect but hopefully meaningful conversation about risk. $15 tickets – get yours soon! Doors at 7pm, presentation at 730. Ticket link in bio ⬆️
📸 @felipesh from a recon mission in 2022. Bike footage from the actual day.
@thenorthface @scarpana @organicclimbing
#climbing
Last summer I completed the Longs Peak Triathlon, unsupported. It was a personal challenge that I didn’t talk much about on social media. The Triathlon – a trio of biking, running, and climbing from Boulder to RMNP and back – encompassed moments of pure joy alongside clear and sobering realizations of my own mortality. I wanted time to process and reflect. Expressing my experience authentically while also acknowledging the impact of storytelling around soloing feels important to me; it’s a story I want to tell the Front Range community firsthand, in-person.
Join me at @colorado_chautauqua March 12th for an imperfect but hopefully meaningful conversation about risk. $15 tickets – get yours soon! Doors at 7pm, presentation at 730. Ticket link in bio ⬆️
📸 @felipesh from a recon mission in 2022. Bike footage from the actual day.
@thenorthface @scarpana @organicclimbing
#climbing
Last summer I completed the Longs Peak Triathlon, unsupported. It was a personal challenge that I didn’t talk much about on social media. The Triathlon – a trio of biking, running, and climbing from Boulder to RMNP and back – encompassed moments of pure joy alongside clear and sobering realizations of my own mortality. I wanted time to process and reflect. Expressing my experience authentically while also acknowledging the impact of storytelling around soloing feels important to me; it’s a story I want to tell the Front Range community firsthand, in-person.
Join me at @colorado_chautauqua March 12th for an imperfect but hopefully meaningful conversation about risk. $15 tickets – get yours soon! Doors at 7pm, presentation at 730. Ticket link in bio ⬆️
📸 @felipesh from a recon mission in 2022. Bike footage from the actual day.
@thenorthface @scarpana @organicclimbing
#climbing
Last summer I completed the Longs Peak Triathlon, unsupported. It was a personal challenge that I didn’t talk much about on social media. The Triathlon – a trio of biking, running, and climbing from Boulder to RMNP and back – encompassed moments of pure joy alongside clear and sobering realizations of my own mortality. I wanted time to process and reflect. Expressing my experience authentically while also acknowledging the impact of storytelling around soloing feels important to me; it’s a story I want to tell the Front Range community firsthand, in-person.
Join me at @colorado_chautauqua March 12th for an imperfect but hopefully meaningful conversation about risk. $15 tickets – get yours soon! Doors at 7pm, presentation at 730. Ticket link in bio ⬆️
📸 @felipesh from a recon mission in 2022. Bike footage from the actual day.
@thenorthface @scarpana @organicclimbing
#climbing
The Heist (V12) 💸☑️ Took some exciting whips on this thing (third pic) over the course of 3 sessions. Reminded me of projecting Speed of Life back in the day where you’d fall and immediately have to engage cat reflexes 🐱💥 Gotta love #slantclimbing. It’s genuinely good fall practice! And of course wouldn’t be an Eldo climb without a fingerlock🖕🏼
Fun hangs with @dawoods89 and @bobbysorich 📸 and @tchadx with the 🎥
@thenorthface @thenorthface_climb
@scarpana
@organicclimbing
#climbing #bouldering
The Heist (V12) 💸☑️ Took some exciting whips on this thing (third pic) over the course of 3 sessions. Reminded me of projecting Speed of Life back in the day where you’d fall and immediately have to engage cat reflexes 🐱💥 Gotta love #slantclimbing. It’s genuinely good fall practice! And of course wouldn’t be an Eldo climb without a fingerlock🖕🏼
Fun hangs with @dawoods89 and @bobbysorich 📸 and @tchadx with the 🎥
@thenorthface @thenorthface_climb
@scarpana
@organicclimbing
#climbing #bouldering
The Heist (V12) 💸☑️ Took some exciting whips on this thing (third pic) over the course of 3 sessions. Reminded me of projecting Speed of Life back in the day where you’d fall and immediately have to engage cat reflexes 🐱💥 Gotta love #slantclimbing. It’s genuinely good fall practice! And of course wouldn’t be an Eldo climb without a fingerlock🖕🏼
Fun hangs with @dawoods89 and @bobbysorich 📸 and @tchadx with the 🎥
@thenorthface @thenorthface_climb
@scarpana
@organicclimbing
#climbing #bouldering
When Vegas got rained out, I considered the extra four hours to Bishop. The forecast wasn’t much better and I’d only have a week. My remaining projects are a little too hard and/or involved for such a brief stint. Colorado promised a shorter drive and return to normalcy, routine, and comfort. But something pulled me West – I figured I’d at least get to hang on the Swarm holds as a reminder of what I’m training for.
Those reminders were in full effect, re: dry-firing off Haroun while trying yet another alternative beta sequence 😅 But the best reminders weren’t about training or projects. They were always about the people. The Bishop community continually points me back towards my values: connection, courage, making a difference where I can. I was reminded of my capacity for deep feelings and desire for long-term groundedness; two things that have felt far away lately. I’m starting my 14hr drive back to CO feeling re-embraced and recharged. I have my Eastern Sierra friends to thank.
Looking forward to the next visit and catching up with everyone I missed this time around! Special thanks to @andyliu84 for the hospitality 💛 Our rice tea talks are high on the list of reasons to return sooner than later.
Another big thanks to @davidhlin for being my Fall Guy 😂🙌🏼
Big love Bishop ❤️❤️ and Happy Birthday Ethan lol 🥳👑
#climbing #bouldering #buttermilks
When Vegas got rained out, I considered the extra four hours to Bishop. The forecast wasn’t much better and I’d only have a week. My remaining projects are a little too hard and/or involved for such a brief stint. Colorado promised a shorter drive and return to normalcy, routine, and comfort. But something pulled me West – I figured I’d at least get to hang on the Swarm holds as a reminder of what I’m training for.
Those reminders were in full effect, re: dry-firing off Haroun while trying yet another alternative beta sequence 😅 But the best reminders weren’t about training or projects. They were always about the people. The Bishop community continually points me back towards my values: connection, courage, making a difference where I can. I was reminded of my capacity for deep feelings and desire for long-term groundedness; two things that have felt far away lately. I’m starting my 14hr drive back to CO feeling re-embraced and recharged. I have my Eastern Sierra friends to thank.
Looking forward to the next visit and catching up with everyone I missed this time around! Special thanks to @andyliu84 for the hospitality 💛 Our rice tea talks are high on the list of reasons to return sooner than later.
Another big thanks to @davidhlin for being my Fall Guy 😂🙌🏼
Big love Bishop ❤️❤️ and Happy Birthday Ethan lol 🥳👑
#climbing #bouldering #buttermilks
Another shot of The Air Up There & more vibe photos from my second half of Bishop. New boulders, spring blooms, garden parties, Charlie in the Milks, and… Olivia Rodrigo?? 🤍🎶 Always finding excuses to stick around this magical place. But now it’s back to Colorado 🏔️ Stoked for some home routine. See ya later Bish!
Pic 1 @cody.kaemmerlen
Pic 5 & 9 @eric_fallecker
@thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @organicclimbing @scarpa_world
#climbing #bouldering #buttermilks
Another shot of The Air Up There & more vibe photos from my second half of Bishop. New boulders, spring blooms, garden parties, Charlie in the Milks, and… Olivia Rodrigo?? 🤍🎶 Always finding excuses to stick around this magical place. But now it’s back to Colorado 🏔️ Stoked for some home routine. See ya later Bish!
Pic 1 @cody.kaemmerlen
Pic 5 & 9 @eric_fallecker
@thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @organicclimbing @scarpa_world
#climbing #bouldering #buttermilks
Another shot of The Air Up There & more vibe photos from my second half of Bishop. New boulders, spring blooms, garden parties, Charlie in the Milks, and… Olivia Rodrigo?? 🤍🎶 Always finding excuses to stick around this magical place. But now it’s back to Colorado 🏔️ Stoked for some home routine. See ya later Bish!
Pic 1 @cody.kaemmerlen
Pic 5 & 9 @eric_fallecker
@thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @organicclimbing @scarpa_world
#climbing #bouldering #buttermilks
Another shot of The Air Up There & more vibe photos from my second half of Bishop. New boulders, spring blooms, garden parties, Charlie in the Milks, and… Olivia Rodrigo?? 🤍🎶 Always finding excuses to stick around this magical place. But now it’s back to Colorado 🏔️ Stoked for some home routine. See ya later Bish!
Pic 1 @cody.kaemmerlen
Pic 5 & 9 @eric_fallecker
@thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @organicclimbing @scarpa_world
#climbing #bouldering #buttermilks
Another shot of The Air Up There & more vibe photos from my second half of Bishop. New boulders, spring blooms, garden parties, Charlie in the Milks, and… Olivia Rodrigo?? 🤍🎶 Always finding excuses to stick around this magical place. But now it’s back to Colorado 🏔️ Stoked for some home routine. See ya later Bish!
Pic 1 @cody.kaemmerlen
Pic 5 & 9 @eric_fallecker
@thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @organicclimbing @scarpa_world
#climbing #bouldering #buttermilks
Another shot of The Air Up There & more vibe photos from my second half of Bishop. New boulders, spring blooms, garden parties, Charlie in the Milks, and… Olivia Rodrigo?? 🤍🎶 Always finding excuses to stick around this magical place. But now it’s back to Colorado 🏔️ Stoked for some home routine. See ya later Bish!
Pic 1 @cody.kaemmerlen
Pic 5 & 9 @eric_fallecker
@thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @organicclimbing @scarpa_world
#climbing #bouldering #buttermilks
Another shot of The Air Up There & more vibe photos from my second half of Bishop. New boulders, spring blooms, garden parties, Charlie in the Milks, and… Olivia Rodrigo?? 🤍🎶 Always finding excuses to stick around this magical place. But now it’s back to Colorado 🏔️ Stoked for some home routine. See ya later Bish!
Pic 1 @cody.kaemmerlen
Pic 5 & 9 @eric_fallecker
@thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @organicclimbing @scarpa_world
#climbing #bouldering #buttermilks
Another shot of The Air Up There & more vibe photos from my second half of Bishop. New boulders, spring blooms, garden parties, Charlie in the Milks, and… Olivia Rodrigo?? 🤍🎶 Always finding excuses to stick around this magical place. But now it’s back to Colorado 🏔️ Stoked for some home routine. See ya later Bish!
Pic 1 @cody.kaemmerlen
Pic 5 & 9 @eric_fallecker
@thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @organicclimbing @scarpa_world
#climbing #bouldering #buttermilks
Shorty beta for Erosion (V10). Shoulder training paying off for that initial lefthand bump 😊
Consolation send with @keithallen.jpg after our plan A boulder decided to be a waterfall for the day. It’s cool it’s cool I totally wanted to hike my pads 40min uphill thru the snow and also fall in the creek for good measure.
Gotta love Colorado spring season! I need waders 😪
Cheers to Lucas for the vid 🎥
@thenorthface_climb @scarpana @organicclimbing
#climbing #bouldering
In periodized plans there’s progressive overload of weight, reps, sets, etc, – ie intensity – followed by rest (deload). Then it all starts up again. I’ve coached climbers around periodization for a long time but this year I hired @latticetraining to take the mental weight off my own training.
Last week was my first deload and mannnn I was feelin’ it. Kind of hilarious because I remember folks from my own training cohorts getting strong and gaining stoke in the first couple weeks, and then CRASHING by week three 😂 followed by a much-needed rest week. I reassured them of the process; bodies adapt to new stimulation, get pushed to the limit, start to fail as the limit is reached, and then ease off for recovery before the next cycle.
I am now in the same boat as my cohort folks were in: the ups and downs of try-hard & progression alongside fatigue & regression. It’s intensely satisfying and exhausting, and I’m grateful to my coach Ollie for reminding me that I might feel “a bit clunky” in my first week after deload.
I still have a long ways to go towards my goals but I’m feeling pretty good after this first round and am psyched for more.
Also, black fits FTW apparently 🖤
@latticetraining
@thenorthface_climb
@scarpana
@organicclimbing
#climbing #trainingforclimbing
Return of the Hueco Rock Rodeo 🤩 and 10 years since I last competed in this special event!! Roaming East/Spur and crimping on familiar classics felt like being back in my early 20’s again. Pleased that I still have my standards dialed – Swiss Crisp, Wheaties, Ministry of Truth, Mangum, Mr. Serious, and Sex After Death are all reliable comforts. I even almost did a new one (Rumble!) but punted on the slab 😩
There was an interesting moment where I wanted to throw the comp out the window and just work my proj, but I’m glad I committed to the day’s goal of getting in 6 climbs (and more!). Bouldering mileage makes you dig deep and the Rodeo is a great reason to push hard. Happy to walk away with 🥈 place, a cute sandwich with @michaelakiersch and @mayaontherocks 🙌🏼
I’m so proud of the @americanalpine team for bringing back the Rodeo after a multi-year hiatus. Organizing guides, climbers, media, music, food, etc etc is a logistical adventure. Big thanks to the employees, volunteers, guides, photographers/videographers, and climbers that showed up and worked hard!! 💛 Looking forward to seeing how the comp evolves over the next couple years. Shoutout to @thenorthface_climb for supporting and @louderthan11 for capturing the moment 🎥
Climbs Shown: Wheaties 🥣 Swiss Crisp 🧀 Ministry of Truth ⚖️
#climbing #bouldering #huecorockrodeo
Are you the one that works hard, dials in all the beta and trains for an objective or the one that just says “what the worst that can happen?”
A few years back, @sheneenagins and I teamed up to simul the Diamond. It went so smoothly that we entertained the idea of the Longs Peak triathlon.
It didn’t take long for Nina to get serious, she bought a bike started training, became a biker, and refreshed her alpine skills all while I had a kid, took on teaching a new class and continued to just climb whatever I had time for or sounded the most fun at the moment — i.e. laps on the naked edge.
Two weeks out from the tri Nina and I do a warm-up lap, biking to and from Eldo, I can do 30 miles round trip, good enough I thought?
After the initial 41 mile uphill bike ride I was deep in the pain cave, I can’t remember the last time I did something that cardio intensive. When I hopped off the bike I was so sore and so wobbly, wondering how I ever thought this could be fun. For the first mile of the approach, I was cramping up virtually every step. It did get better, but marginally.
Things changed for the brief hour the rock shoes were on and we scrambled the north chimney and floated the 7 pitches of the casual route, passing 2 really friendly parties. A nice reminder that rock climbing fitness is not the same as biking fitness. As we scrambled the last bit to the summit, all I could think about is how I could get out of biking back to Boulder. I’m not sure if I ever actually said that or if it’s the lack of air at 14,000 ft.
Seems a lot more pleasant if you train, but in my never ending quest to live a balanced life sometimes just accepting the suffering is a bit easier— not really sure I made the right decision on this one…
#adventure #rockclimbing #biking #longspeak #longspeaktriathlon #climbingismypassion #tradisrad #tradclimbing #alpineclimbing #rmnp #rockymountainnationalpark
